Khao sawy AKA khao soi (Chiang Mai curried noodles)

Chiang Mai was my first experience of Thailand. I arrived at dinner-time, after 16 hours of travel, disoriented, exhausted and hungry. Half an hour later I was sitting amid the cacophony of a night market, slurping a bowl of noodle soup. Even now, years later, I still have such fond memories of Chiang Mai, and Chiang Mai street food.

Recipe

These Burmese-influenced noodles are served all over Northern Thailand, but are best loved in Chiang Mai.

Traditionally the noodles are boiled separately from the curry, and put in the bowl first, with the curry poured over the top. I've simplified this to avoid using another pot (yes, I hate doing the washing up that much). Either way, they taste amazing.

Fresh egg noodles
Oil
1 small onion, diced
2 tsp minced garlic
1 tsp minced ginger
2 tsp minced chilli or sambal olek
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp curry powder
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp shrimp paste
1 cup coconut milk
1 tsp palm or brown sugar
1 tsp soy sauce
4 chicken drumsticks
Garnishes:
1 lime, cut in wedges
Small handful fresh cilantro or spring onion, sliced
Pickled mustard greens

Heat a thin layer of oil in a small pan until hot, then deep fry a handful of fresh noodles until crispy, frying in batches if necessary. Place on a paper towel to drain, and set aside.

In a large pan, transfer a small amount of the oil, and add the onion. Cook a couple of minutes, until it starts to soften. Add the garlic, ginger, chilli, ground spices and shrimp paste. Cook another 1-2 minutes, then add the coconut milk, sugar, soy sauce and about a cup of water. Bring to a boil, and add the chicken pieces. Cover and simmer until cooked, about 30 minutes.

When the chicken is done, add the rest of the fresh noodles to the pan and cook 1-2 minutes until the noodles are heated through.

Ladle into bowls, and top with the fresh herbs and crunchy fried noodles. Serve with wedges of lime to squeeze over, and pickled greens to add to taste.

Serves: 2
Preparation and cooking time: 40-45 minutes

Want more delicious Northern Thai dishes? Try:
Nam Ngiaw (Northern Thai noodle soup)
Chiang Mai curry (kaeng hangleh or gaeng hanglay)